Harrington Property Services

Roof leak: what to do in the first hour

Contain the water, kill the power to that room, and find the stain — in that order.

problem5 min read

The short answer

Put a bucket under it and a towel round the bucket. If the ceiling is bulging, pierce the middle of the bulge with a screwdriver and let it drain into the bucket — a sagging ceiling that holds water will come down all at once and take the light fitting with it. Turn off the electricity to that room at the consumer unit if water is anywhere near a light or socket. Move what you can, photograph everything for your insurer, then ring a roofer.

01

Pierce the bulge — really

It feels wrong, but a bulging plasterboard ceiling is holding several litres of water in a bag that is getting heavier. Left alone it fails at the weakest point, usually all at once, usually over furniture.

Put a bucket underneath, take a screwdriver, and make one small hole at the lowest point of the bulge. It drains in a controlled stream instead of collapsing. You will need to replace a patch of ceiling either way; you would rather not replace the floor as well.

02

Water and electricity

If water is running near a ceiling rose, a downlight or a socket, turn that circuit off at the consumer unit before you go near it. Downlights are the common route — they are literally holes in the ceiling, and water finds them.

Do not switch the light on to see the leak better. If anything has already got wet, leave it off and have an electrician look before it is used again.

03

Where the water is really coming from

Water does not come through where it lands. It travels along a batten or down a rafter and drops where the roof structure lets it, often several feet from the actual hole. This is why leaks get chased for years.

If you can get into the loft safely — and only if you can — take a torch and look for the wet trail rather than the wet spot. Follow it uphill. Note where daylight shows through. Photograph it. That trail is the single most useful thing you can give a roofer over the phone.

Around a chimney
Almost always the lead flashing or the mortar. Very common, very fixable, rarely needs a new roof.
In a valley between two roofs
Debris has dammed the valley or the lead has split. Clearing it is sometimes the whole repair.
Under a flat roof or dormer
A seam, a blister or a failed upstand where the flat roof meets the wall.
Down the inside of an outside wall
Often not the roof at all — a blocked gutter, a cracked downpipe or failed pointing. Cheaper. Check it first.
Only in driving rain from one direction
Wind-driven rain through a small defect. Genuinely hard to find in dry weather, which is why we sometimes ask to come back while it is raining.
04

Does it need a roofer tonight?

Yes if: water is coming in fast enough that buckets are filling, a ceiling has already come down, tiles or slates have visibly gone in a storm, or water is anywhere near electrics you cannot isolate.

It can usually wait until morning if: it is a slow drip you can contain, it only happens in heavy rain, and nothing structural has moved. A roofer working in the dark in the wet does a worse job at a higher price. We would rather come at first light and do it properly — and we will tell you honestly which of the two yours is when you ring.

05

What a temporary fix actually buys you

A tarpaulin or a temporary cover is not a repair. It is a way of stopping further damage to the inside of your house while the weather passes and the roof dries enough to work on. Most permanent roof repairs cannot be done properly on a soaking roof.

Anyone who wants to do the full repair in the rain, at night, for cash, is not doing you a favour.

06

Insurance

Storm damage is usually covered. Wear and tear and gradual deterioration usually are not, and insurers do look at that distinction closely. Photograph everything before you clear up: the ceiling, the trail, the outside of the roof, and the date.

If it is an insurance job, tell the roofer at the start. The report needs writing in the terms the insurer asks for, and it is much easier to do that from the beginning than to reconstruct it afterwards.

Questions

01

Should I go up on the roof myself?

No. A fall from a two-storey roof is a life-changing injury, and a wet or frosted slope is far worse than a dry one. Looking from inside the loft is safe; looking from a ladder in the rain is not.

02

What affects the cost of an emergency call-out?

The hour and the access, and what has to be done. Sheeting a stripped slope costs more than an emergency make-safe with a temporary cover. Pricing the permanent repair afterwards is free.

03

The leak stopped on its own. Do I still need someone?

Yes. It stopped because the rain did. Water in a roof structure rots battens and rafters quietly, and a small repair now is very much cheaper than a slope of re-roofing in two winters.

04

Can you find a leak when it is not raining?

Usually. The trail, the staining and the state of the flashings tell us most of it. Occasionally a wind-driven leak only shows in specific conditions, and then we will say so rather than guess and charge you.

05

Will my ceiling need replacing?

If it has bulged or gone soft, that section will. Plasterboard that has been soaked does not recover. A small patch is a straightforward job for a plasterer once the roof is watertight and the void has dried out.

06

How quickly can you get here?

The call-out line runs 24 hours, and for an active leak in South London we aim for the same day.

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