Harrington Property Services

Roof moss: when it matters and when it does not

The moss on the slope is rarely the problem — the moss that has washed into the gutters and the valley is.

problem10 min read

The short answer

On a sound roof, moss is mostly a colour. The harm it does is mechanical and it happens lower down: clumps break off, pack the gutters, hoppers and valleys, and water then goes over the back of a full gutter and down the wall. Clear it if the gutters fill every autumn, if the tiles are concrete, or if a valley is blocked. Never pressure wash a tiled roof.

01

Moss is a water problem, not a plant problem

Moss has no roots in the way a tree does. It grips with fine hair-like threads into whatever texture it can find — the weathered face of a concrete tile, the grain of a sanded ridge, the gritty edge of an old slate — and it takes its water straight from the rain and the air. That is why it always picks the same places: the north slope, the side under next door's sycamore, and the bottom two or three courses where run-off lingers.

A pitched roof does not keep water out by being sealed. It keeps water out by shedding it quickly and then drying. Each tile overlaps the one below by a set head lap, and that lap works because the gap between the two drains and dries between showers. Lay a saturated mat across it and that part of the roof stops drying. The tile stays wet, the lap stays wet, and the underlay beneath is asked to do full time a job it was only ever meant to do occasionally.

What that costs you depends entirely on the material. Concrete tiles carry their colour in a thin cement-rich skin on the face; kept permanently damp, frost lifts that skin away in flakes, and what is left underneath drinks water faster than the tile you started with. Clay is denser and largely shrugs it off. Slate does not absorb water at all, so on a slate roof the green is very close to being just green.

02

The damage happens in the gutters, the valleys and the verges

Almost every moss-related repair worth doing is a drainage job. The mat sheds clumps in wind and heavy rain, they wash down the slope, and they stop at the first thing that will hold them: the gutter, the hopper head, the valley, or the outlet on a flat roof below.

A packed gutter does not only overflow at the front where you would see it. It overflows at the back too, into the gap between the gutter and the fascia, and that water runs onto the wall head and the feet of the rafters — the timbers you can least afford to keep wet and the last ones anyone ever looks at. Fascia boards rot from behind for exactly this reason, which is why a soft fascia is so often the first visible sign of a moss problem that started two storeys higher.

Valleys are worse, because the water has nowhere sideways to go. On a London butterfly roof — two slopes falling into a central lead-lined valley hidden behind the front parapet — the entire roof drains through one channel and one outlet. Block that and the water rises until it passes the upstand, and it goes into the roof space rather than down the front of the house where somebody would notice.

The verge is the third place to look: the mortar edge at a gable end. That bedding is what holds the edge tiles down against wind lift. A permanent damp strip of moss along it keeps the mortar wet through every frost until it loses its grip and comes away in lengths. Once the verge is open, wind gets under the edge of the slope, and wind lift takes far more tiles off London roofs than weight has ever pushed in.

03

How to tell if yours needs doing

Most of this can be judged from a first-floor window and from the pavement with a pair of binoculars. Two questions settle it: what the roof is made of, and where the moss has been ending up.

The gutters overflowed last autumn
Then it matters, whatever the roof is made of. That is the damage, and it is already happening.
You cannot see the bottom of the valley
The highest priority on the list. A dammed valley is the one that actually puts water inside the house.
The mat is thick enough to grip
Forty or fifty millimetres sitting in the tile laps holds water permanently. A thin green film does not, and can wait.
It is slate and only tinged green
Cosmetic. Slate does not absorb water, and scrubbing hard at lichen damages more than the lichen does.
The slope is shallow
Below about 25 degrees water moves slowly, and a moss dam can hold it above the head lap long enough to creep past.
Moss along the verge or up under the ridge
Mortar territory. Worth clearing early, because re-bedding a ridge or a verge costs far more than clearing it does.
Flaked, pitted tiles where moss has lifted
The surface has already gone. Clearing stops it getting worse; nothing puts the face back on a concrete tile.
The roof is being replaced within a couple of years
Leave it and keep the money for the re-roof. Clear the gutters in the meantime and that is enough.
04

The one thing not to do: a pressure washer

This is the part worth reading twice. A jet wash strips a roof in an afternoon, and it is the most common way a cheap clean turns into a repair bill.

The first problem is the surface. A domestic pressure washer delivers well over a hundred bar at the nozzle; a roof tile was designed to survive rain landing on it. The cement skin on a concrete tile comes off under a lance in seconds, colour and all, and the rougher, more open face left behind grows moss back quicker than the one you started with. On slate the lance breaks the fragile bottom edges and works old nails loose.

The second problem is the direction of the water. A roof relies on gravity and overlap. Aim a lance uphill and water goes straight past the head lap onto the underlay — and on most London roofs built before the 1980s that underlay is bitumen felt, by now brittle and quite likely already split over the rafters. That is how a clean produces a ceiling stain a fortnight later, long enough afterwards that nobody connects the two. Several tile manufacturers exclude pressure-washing damage from their warranties, which tells you what the trade makes of it.

Price is the giveaway. If one quote for a whole roof is a fraction of every other, it is a jet wash, and it is often followed by an offer to spray a coating over what the lance has just done. Hand scraping is slower and dearer because somebody has to be up there working course by course.

05

What a proper clean involves, and what drives the cost

The order of work matters more than people expect. The roof is looked at first from a ladder, then scraped and soft-brushed off a roof ladder, which spreads the load across the ridge so nobody stands on the tiles themselves. Gutters, hoppers, valleys and outlets are cleared afterwards rather than before, because that is where everything you have just removed has gone. Tiles the mat has lifted go back mechanically fixed. Anything found broken underneath should be photographed and priced on its own line, not folded into the total.

A biocide goes on last, once the roof is clear and dry enough to take it. It kills the spores and film no brush reaches, and it works over weeks rather than minutes — the dead residue then weathers off with the rain across the following months. A roof still looking patchy a fortnight after the work is behaving normally. It is a treatment, not a coating, and it changes nothing about how the roof sheds water.

Across London this work is priced by roof area rather than by the hour. Four things move the price: access first — a rear slope that needs a tower rather than a ladder adds to the cost — then the thickness of the mat, then the area and pitch, since a 40-degree slope carries about a third more surface than its footprint suggests, and last the London extras such as a parking suspension for the van, which belongs on the quote rather than on the final invoice.

06

When leaving it alone is the right answer

A slate roof with a green cast and some grey-orange lichen does not need cleaning. It needs looking at every few years for slipped slates and tired flashings, which is a different job and a cheaper one. Cleaning it is a decision about how the house looks, and there is nothing wrong with that as long as it is priced as such.

If the only real symptom is a gutter that overflows each autumn, the honest job is a gutter, hopper and valley clear at a fraction of a full roof clean. That is the sentence a lot of roof-cleaning leaflets are written to avoid, and it is true on a good number of the roofs we are called to look at.

If water is coming in now, moss is unlikely to be the cause and a clean is not the answer. A leak wants finding first — a slipped tile, a split flashing, a failed valley lining — and the clean, if it is needed at all, comes afterwards. And a coating sprayed over the tiles after a clean is worth refusing: it seals a tile that needs to dry, bridges the laps so a single tile can no longer be lifted for a repair, and does nothing about the nails and the underlay, which are what actually bring a tiled roof to an end.

Questions

01

Can I get the moss off myself?

Clearing the gutters from a footed ladder is a reasonable job for a confident person. Going onto the slope is not. Clay plain tiles and slates crack under a boot, moss underfoot is as slippery as wet ice, and roof work is done off a roof ladder hooked over the ridge so that the load goes through the structure rather than through the tiles. If you do not own a roof ladder and a way of tying the ladder off at the top, this is not a job to start.

02

Will a chemical treatment on its own clear a thick mat?

No. A biocide kills moss but does not remove it. Sprayed onto a mat forty millimetres thick, it soaks the surface, kills what it reaches, and leaves a dead brown layer that takes years to weather off and holds water in the meantime. Treatment is the finishing step after scraping, or a sensible job on its own where there is only a thin green film.

03

Is the weight of the moss a structural problem?

Almost never, and it is the claim to be most suspicious of. A wet mat does add load, but a tiled roof already carries the weight of the tiles, the battens and the timbers, and that is a much larger number. Sagging slopes are caused by undersized or rotten rafters, failed battens or a purlin that has moved. If somebody opens with structural collapse rather than gutters, ask what evidence they have.

04

Why is the moss only on one slope?

Because moss needs the surface to stay damp. A north-facing slope, or one shaded by a neighbour's tree or a taller building, dries hours later after each shower than the sunny side does. Overhanging branches make it worse twice over: they keep the sun off and they drop leaf litter that holds moisture and feeds the growth. Cutting back what overhangs the roof does more for regrowth than any product on the market.

05

How often does a South London roof need clearing?

A shaded rear slope in this part of London is usually on a three to five year rhythm; an open, sunny roof goes considerably longer. Gutters are a separate and more frequent matter — most terraces want them checked yearly, in late autumn once the leaves are down. Neither is a fixed rule, and the honest answer is to look rather than to book the work by the calendar.

06

The gutters overflow every autumn. Is moss to blame?

Partly, and it is worth knowing the split before spending. If the gutter fills with leaf litter it is the trees, and the fix is an annual clear. If what comes out is dense wet moss then the roof is feeding it, and clearing the gutters alone means doing the same job again next year. Take a photograph of what is lifted out — it answers the question straight away.

07

Should I have the roof cleaned before selling the house?

A green roof does put buyers off, and a clean slope photographs better, so there is a case for it on a concrete or clay tile roof. Be aware that surveyors treat a sprayed roof coating as a red flag on a homebuyer's report, on the reasonable ground that something may have been hidden under it. A hand clean helps a sale; a coating can cost you one.

08

Is a mossy roof a sign the roof is near the end?

Not on its own. Moss tells you which slope stays damp, not how much life is left in the roof. What ends a tiled roof is nail fatigue, perished underlay and failed battens, and none of those are visible from the pavement. If the roof is old enough that the question is worth asking, the answer comes from a look inside the loft and a proper survey rather than from the colour of the tiles.

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